Rick Steves Recommends This German Town's Castle Hotel With Rhine River Views
Rick Steves Recommends This German Town's Castle Hotel With Rhine River Views

Nowhere in the world does castles quite like Europe. From the gilded, decadent luxury of France's riverbank châteaux and the soaring fairytale turrets of Sintra in Portugal to the grim, looming majesty of England's Norman fortifications, the sheer variety of castles in Europe is astonishing. Fans of Gothic horror trek into the wilds of the Romanian countryside for an immersive, spine-tingling visit to Dracula's Bran Castle, while aspiring Disney princes and princesses gaze in awe at the picturesque mountaintop beauty of Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria. Whether you are after crumbling hulks or storybook perfection, Europe's ancient castles and fortresses will provide.

Germany has a truly excellent selection of palaces and beautiful fortifications. European travel guru Rick Steves is a particular fan of the castles on the Rhine. He says that "one of Europe's great thrills is zipping along the Rhine River on a fast train, or gliding slowly on a relaxing old steamer boat ... [exploring] the fabled Germany of hill-topping castles, rugged cliffs, half-timbered towns, and half-remembered myths swirling in the river's mists." One of his favorite spots is the town of Oberwesel, overlooked by the rugged, dramatic beauty of the Schönburg, the town's castle, which now doubles as a restaurant and hotel.

Oberwesel sits on the banks of the River Rhine, about 30 miles south of Koblenz and around 30 miles north-west of Mainz. The nearest major airport is Frankfurt International, just over 50 miles away, reachable by car or train in a little over an hour. Frankfurt-Hahn Airport is closer, just a 40-minute drive, but it only serves a limited number of European routes.

Read more: The Biggest Tourist Traps In Europe, According To Rick Steves

Towers, city walls, and medieval charm

Oberwesel Castle and church appearing out of green trees
Oberwesel Castle and church appearing out of green trees - LouieLea/Shutterstock

Rick Steves likes to arrive in Oberwesel by boat for the most dramatic and atmospheric entrance. He says, "From the river, you can see its ship's masts rising from terra firma — a memorial to the generations of riverboat captains and sailors for whom this town is famous." The river is at the heart of the town's history, and it is what makes Oberwesel such a fantastic base for exploring along this storied watercourse.

Steves suggests starting your visit in the "charming main square" before taking time to "explore its museum with the best collection of historic Rhine artifacts I've found within the Rhine gorge." The wonderfully preserved city walls add a touch of glorious medieval flavor to the experience, and the beautiful half-timbered houses in the old center are as impressive and picturesque as you'll find anywhere else in the country. The other main highlight of the town is its 16 fortified defensive towers, spread evenly around the city walls. One of these is currently a private home, with some charming if potentially apocryphal stories attached, including one where partying teens pulled up the drawbridge to prevent their fun from being shut down by the local police!

While the Schönburg that overlooks the town might not be quite as dramatic as some of the other must-visit castles in Germany, it is still a stunning example of German Imperial medieval architecture. It is definitely one of the most beautiful castles in the country that you can actually stay in, and a night perched high above the town, watching out over the Rhine from a tower room or the atmospheric bistro restaurant, is a glorious adventure.

Vineyards and hilltop castles

Vineyards overlooking the Rhine River
Vineyards overlooking the Rhine River - Trabantos/Getty Images

Oberwesel is a small place, and if you plan to stay for any length of time, chances are you will be heading further afield to explore the Rhine Valley in more depth. Rick Steves describes the river as "a major transportation route since Roman times, when the river marked the northern end of the empire. In the Middle Ages, the stretch from Bingen to Koblenz was home to no fewer than 16 greedy dukes and lords — robber barons running small-time dukedoms, living in hilltop castles and collecting tolls from merchant vessels passing by in the river below." These days, the Rhine is home to more winemakers than feudal lords, and no tour of the region is complete without a tasting at one of its excellent vineyards.

Steves describes how "visitors have been captivated by the Rhine Valley's past glory and rich legend for centuries" and how "with a little imagination, it's easy to rekindle the Europe of old in Germany's Rhineland." With so many incredible castles to choose from (one every few miles along the river, per Rick Steves), choosing which ones to visit is an art. If you are staying in the opulent surroundings of Oberwesel's Hotel Schönburg, then it might be worth looking for something a little different, like Rick Steves' favorite, Rheinfels. Steves describes it as "the biggest and mightiest castle on the Rhine" and says, "While now a gutted shell, this castle offers your single most convenient and evocative hands-on castle experience on the river."

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